Death Valley Days

I had the unique pleasure of spending a few days in Death Valley over the weekend, enjoying its canyons with some very nice folks from Las Vegas. It was my first time there and the place is truly awesome in its desolate loneliness, appearing nearly lifeless and with intimidating ruggedness. From Dante’s Peak you can look over the vast expanse of the valley, all below sea level and covered with immense salt deposits, leading to an inevitable feeling that God did not create this bleak tract of earth for human habitation. And in fact, few have lived here over the course of history, mostly miners, battling the mountains and elements to extract precious deposits of gold, silver, copper, chloride, borax, lead and even cyanide.

The canyons are equally stark, surrounded by black, craggy mountains with approaches filled with slippery talus-covered inclines, one of which carried me on my butt for over 40 yards while I grasped desperately for something to stop my fall. At the bottom, looking at my bloody hands, I was reminded of why I brought my gloves, and kept them by my side for the rest of the trip.

Day One was Styx Canyon, which includes 13 rappels and plenty of challenging downclimbs, dropping nearly 5000 vertical feet. Unlike Utah sandstone, these canyons offer many layers of mineral-laden rock, from crumbly limestone to hard-edged quartz and large igneous deposits. This made for a very different sort of canyoneering experience, and although not as beautiful as Utah, they are certainly as impressive and awe-inspiring. And after a 10-hour day in Styx, I would say equally challenging as well. Day Two was Coffin Canyon, another 4600 feet down and seven rappels, including one 190-footer and another that passed sea level during the descent. Both canyons finished about at about -250 feet in elevation with walkouts over vast alluvial fans overlooking the saline-covered valley floor.

I would like to return to Death Valley. I've read about a stunningly long line of petroglyphs west of the park that sound fascinating. I've heard that the mountain wildflowers are awesome a little later in the spring. Of course, there’s the infamous racetracks, where the rocks leave long traces in the sand as they roll imperceptibly across the perfectly flat desert floor. And then there are more canyons to do. But I think I’d most like to walk in the salt-covered valley in the middle of July, baking in the sun in the hottest and driest place on this earth, enduring for a while this one extreme, and taking the best and worst of what the sun can give.